Monthly Archive for July, 2007

fallen in shitty water

Ingunn’s farm here has a special place in the big barn called the manure cellar. This cellar is directly below the milking stable. Cow crap is shuffled and squeegied through small openings in the stable floor and collects into massive piles in the cellar below. This cellar is also a place where rainwater collects, as the cellar floor is below the outside ground level. Cow manure is a valuable substance on a farm, but as anyone can imagine, the collecting and managing of this stuff is not the prettiest or best job in the world.

The barn and the terrible place below

I approached this task with aplomb, knowing it can’t be that bad. This is even though Ingunn’s son Arvin said “it is the worst job in the world.” Arvin is only 20, and I’m not sure he’s done the job recently, or with Andrea, the man I’d be working with. Chestin, a woman (and her two daughters Marie and Nora) visiting on the farm, said that her first day working here 25 years ago, cleaning out the manure cellar was her first job on the very first day she was here. Apparently she made it through, so I thought I’d do ok. That, and Andrea had some good ideas on how to take care of the situation.

I’m just not used to moving suction pipes around while standing shin-deep in shitty water with my feet stuck firmly in a mixture of mud and dookie.

The fun thing about today is that I got to drive some tractors!!! I don’t know what it is about tractors, but I just love them. It is so cool to drive a tractor, and this is the first time I’ve really done actual farm work on one. There was another time in Michigan when I was visiting my Mom and Gary when I got to do some front-loader work spreading a pile of sand on the trails around their property. That was good work and good experience, but I was driving around in their back yard, along grass trails, not around a farm hauling implements and wagons and stuff.

So anyway. Andrea went to a neighbor and borrowed their mega-tractor and huge tanker for hauling and spraying the liquidy manure. I got to drive the little Fiat tractor and position the pump. (Unfortunately, I do not have pictures of this operation in place!). So, there’s the tanker, the hose, the pump driven by the Fiat tractor, another hose, and then a long sucker tube. First we had to position everything, connect up the hoses, then get on to it.

It was when we were positioning things that my feet got stuck while holding the hose that connected to the pump on my left and to the sucker tube on my right. In the picture below, on the right side, just outside of the cellar is where I was standing. There was a foot of water there and inside the cellar. Knowing I had to get dirty sometime, I picked the tube up out of the nasty water and tried to take a step back, so the hose and tube could get into better alignment in the cellar. My feet stuck, the weight of the hose threw me off balance, and into the water I went, butt first. Splash! My legs were soaked, my arms soaked up to the elbows and my wellingtons (boots) full of water. Murky, brown, stinking shitty water.

the manure cellar

Oh well. It didn’t really phase me much. I stood up and went on about the business. After a little bit, though, Andrea suggested I get cleaned up and put on clean clothes as the nastiest business (setting everything up) was over and hopefully I’d be able to stay dry for the rest of the day.

And, I did.

Later on I got to drive the eldest tractor, a really old Massey-Ferguson, to connect up to the manure-spreading wagon. Andrea showed me the controls and gave me instructions about where and how to get the wagon connected. Weee! It was fun. Later on I’ll get to drive the bigger Fiat 4-wheel drive tractor while hauling the wagon full of cowshit.

I will definitely have a tractor on my farm. Not so sure about the cows. Their manure is good for the soil, though, and I do like cream in my coffee and cheese on the table. And butter, and yogurt … so a cow may be a good thing to have around. Just not six of them. Definitely a tractor. Hopefully an older used one that is really reliable and simple. (Like the little Fiat!)

I’ve also done a good bit of other things around the farm. I put up a fence around a new grass field for the cows. I used a tool I’d never used before to make the holes for the posts. I think Ingunn called it a spect? Dunno. It’s a sorta heavy, spear-shaped iron/steel thing. It is definitely not a shovel and there was no digging involved. Essentially, I got to where I wanted to place a post, hoisted this thing a foot or so off the ground, with it’s sharp end down, and dropped it straight down. It made a small hole. Hoist it again, and try to drop it into the first small hole. Lift, drop, lift, drop and after about 10-12 lift and drops, a 1 1/2 foot deep hole is made. It is far, far easier than digging a hole with either a shovel or a post-hole digger. I placed eight fence posts this way. Actually, I placed eight of them, five of them in a crooked line which I had to fix later. In the end, I placed 13 posts and with that tool I could have kept on placing and placing all day. It’s a lost tool, replaced by technology that some must think does the job better. I fenced in one side of a field that is about 200 meters long by about 50 meters wide. It’s the field in the background of this picture - there’s a fence along the left side and part of the top.

I’ve also done a lot of weeding. Kohl rabi and leeks and onions. It’s nothing like the weeding I did at La Chalaguere, as we’re almost done weeding the whole garden and that will be it for the weeding for me. However … I did weed two out of six rows of carrots. Weeded and thinned them, even. This took forever! And I’m still nowhere near done.

Other than that, life is good here. I have an entire house to myself for the moment. There’s four bedrooms, each with bunk-beds, a kitchen a living room, a shower room and a toilet room. The entire downstairs of the building is where a lot of production equipment and veggie washing, herb drying and cold storage is located. Years ago, this farm produced a lot more stuff, more veggies, and more products for a Norwegian company called Helios. And, there were lots more people working here. Ingunn and her father, Einer, ran a “practicant” or apprenticeship program where people applied for a position on the farm and then worked here for a year, learning organic agriculture. They don’t do much of it any more. Einer is 92 and Ingunn just doesn’t want to manage it any more. So, there’s no one to fill up the house I’m in. I have meals with the family most of the time. Sometimes I serve myself.

I think that’s it for now. I can mention the big tractors that came in to bale the hay. It was quite a fascinating scene and I took a bunch of photos. Ah, yes, also … I signed up on Facebook, for whatever it’s worth. Take a look if you dare. I’ll post again when I have more to report!

Frilund Gård in Bjørkelangen

I’ve made it to the first farm here in Norway. The trip on the ferry from Denmark was interesting, but really quite uneventful. It was my first real trip by boat on my travels so far. I was glad when it was over. I’m not the biggest fan of boats any more.

looking back

The fun really started when I got to Oslo and couldn’t contact Ingunn, my first wwoof host here in Norway. When I rang the home number, the phone service kept saying it was disconnected. The problem was, I hadn’t been in the best email contact with Ingunn to let her know when I was coming, if I was coming, if I could come, etc. Do I just get to Bjorkelangen without double-checking? I didn’t want to stay in Oslo - probably one of the most expensive cities to stay in. I decided to try to get to Bjorkelangen. The train system is a pleasure and the bus system is highly organized and efficient as well. And … ha ha … everyone speaks perfect English! I was the only person on the bus going to Bjørkelangen, and the bus driver and I had a pretty good conversation about traveling, his dreams to visit the US and politics in Norway and Sweden.

I’ll just say that I got to Bjorkelangen, walked around the small town and couldn’t find a phone. It was almost 10 pm. I can’t say I was the least bit concerned. I felt so safe in this small rural town. It was nice. Everything was closed. I walked toward the center of town and asked a few people who were drinking wine on the trunk of their car if there was a phone nearby. They didn’t know, but one of the guys lent me his mobile phone. Still no answer at either of Ingunn’s numbers. Hmmm. I walked back in the direction of the hotel and wondered if it was actually open and was looking for spots on the street, under the overhangs of buildings, for a place to pitch my sleeping back for the night if it came to that. I got to the hotel and on the door the sign said the doors are locked at 21:00. It also said a room is 910 Kroner a night. Yikes. Way out here in nowheresville, a room is $160 US a night. Holy shit.

I tried the door and it opened. I walked around the corner and someone saw me come up to the reception desk. The owner, who is quite a character - a Portuguese Norwegian - came through the door and asked if I needed a room. I told him I was kind of stuck, that I was hoping to find a farm, but couldn’t seem to contact them. He asked what the farm was called and the name of the farmer … he’d heard of them and knows who Ingunn is. First he tried a couple of his friends on the phone who he thought might know the farmer better. No luck. Then he called information to find out the private home number - it was the same number I had. Shit. Then he tried the number - and Ingunn answered!! They talked for a while and every once in a while he’d look at me and translate bits of the conversation. He said Ingunn was at home, but didn’t have a car to come get me. So, he looked at me and said I was a lucky guy, and that he’d been drinking, so he couldn’t drive, but his wife can drive me to the farm. Sweet!

I had told the bus driver my situation on the way. He said I could probably ask almost anyone in town about Ingunn at Frilund GÃ¥rd and they’d know her. And, it was true. I absolutely love that about small towns.

So, the farm is nice. It’s about 22 acres. Very small veg garden. Bigger than Mike & Janine’s, but smaller than Paola’s. They’re growing several fields of oats and wheat, but not much of either compared to the large operations surrounding them. I think the six milking cows are the main operation. I don’t have many details other than that. I spent today walking around, talking to Ingunn while she milked the cows (with a a fancy automated milker machine system thing), harvesting peppermint and helping weed the herb garden. That was all before lunch and she gave me the afternoon off. This evening we drove to a lake nearby and Ingunn and Marabell (her son Ivran’s girlfriend) went for a swim. I didn’t go in … the water was cold and I didn’t feel like freezing my ass off!

a lake near the farm

It’s good to be here. Norway is beautiful and Ingunn and everyone I’ve met so far on my travels have been excellent. I’m looking forward to my time here! Oh … and we have high-speed internet access! wooo hooo!

some kind of internet junkie

I must be one if I even have to log on from the ferry between Denmark and Norway, and especially if that internet is 2 Kroner a minute … you can figure out how much that works out to.

I spent the night in Frederikshavn, and I am sure I mispronounced the name more than once. The cheapest room I could find was 525 Kroner. (figure that out too, but refrain from telling me how much it is.) I slept incredibly well after not having any sleep on the train from Paris to Hamburg. I fell asleep in my clothes, on top of the covers and woke up a while later. By the light outside, I thought it was about 10:30 at the latest. My mobile phone clock said 2:30. I had to open my powerbook to make sure that was right. Night does not get dark, even here in northern Denmark.

Breakfast was included, and after I called the ferry company and booked my ticket, I sat down to muesli, juice and bread.

The ferry itself is huge, like a cruise ship. There are cabins and everything, but I opted for the cheap 54 euro trip where I have to scrounge for a place to sit anywhere I can. Everything is expensive, of course.

I hope to be on the next farm today … but I have no idea how to get there. It is in or near Bjørkelangen. But my two quick searches of the bus and train lines on the web make it look like neither type of service goes there. I can`t afford to pay for the time to really find out either. I will have to call the farmer and see what they say! Otherwise, I will be spending the night in Oslo!